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Legitimate Reichsmarine Tool?

3K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  Brandon M 
#1 ·
All,

Attached are photos of an M/Anchor tool of the Reichsmarine era. I am wondering about its legitimacy. I have found several other examples posted here (pictured below for comparison) on the forum and notice many similarities, but also subtle differences. What does the forum think?



-Brandon
 
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#3 ·
I think it is fake all the way, from the anchor to the tool itself.
The lip to engage the follower button is way off to the left in the picture; the anchor is uneven and the circle is not circular.
JMHO.
 
#4 ·
Sorry, but I disagree with you.
As far as I can remember, the hole is never circular.

The hole shape is done by doing 2 holes, very close one to the other.
The second one is not completely cut, leaving a little lip to engage it in the mag button.
This is the way the hole does not look circular.

The M/Anchor is with no doubt an earlier Weimar Reichsmarine marking,
Just the same as the one I submitted.


And what do you think about this one ?
 

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#6 ·
I think collectors get hung-up on the appearance of an item. If it doesn't look exactly like what they've seen in a book, it must be fake. A lot of things can effect small, stamped parts. The sharpness or condition of the blanking die. The hardness of the metal being stamped and the force and speed with which the die is struck.
If I saw the tool that Brandon presents here, on a table, at a gun show. I would be stopping to make an offer.
Pat
 
#7 ·
I agree with Pat. It looks exactly like all three of my Weimar tools.
Tim H.
 
#8 ·
I completely agree with Pat.

Let us NEVER, NEVER forget, that these Navy anchor markings were done by hand.
Strucking a die against a piece of steel.

Did you ever try to sink a nail in a piece of wood at a single time ?
What is the result ?
If it is a piece of good oak, the nail will probably bend.
If you do not go straight, it will bend, whatever the wood may be.

So just think so with a die and a piece of steel.
It will depend on your energy, on the size and weight of the hammer, etc...

This is, as Pat said, a recurrent matter. It is easy to point at something and say "fake".
Not so easy to show the reality of the facts, study them and make yourself a good opinion.

Recently something similar ocurred, with a Reichsmarine adler leg, on a Kriegsmarine Luger.
Never forget, please that pantographing is a hand done job too.
It is quite impossible to do the same graphic hundreds of times the same. Impossible.
We will have to accept some fails, some differences.

Now I want to point at something I could often notice, and here, whit the pics presented,
it shows clear to me.
The left part of the marks is very often deeper than the right one. How to explain it ?
This leads me to think that when the operator is right handed, the struck comes from right to left,
and so we have a deeper mark on the left side. Not so easy to stand a punch in a vertical way
when the hammer goes down.

TRY IT.... I DID.....
 
#9 ·
"Now I want to point at something I could often notice, and here, whit the pics presented,
it shows clear to me.
The left part of the marks is very often deeper than the right one. How to explain it ?
This leads me to think that when the operator is right handed, the struck comes from right to left,
and so we have a deeper mark on the left side. Not so easy to stand a punch in a vertical way
when the hammer goes down.

TRY IT.... I DID....."

Hi Roberto,
There are simply to many variables involved in striking a mark to make any assumptions. We don't know if the workman was right or left handed and we don't know if the tool was positioned as shown in the photos when struck, it could just as easily have the tip pointed up as down!
Also during the period in question, left handedness was considered a deformity in Germany, a deformity that had to
be mastered with will-power and training. We don't know if the armorer in question suffered from this unfortunate condition.
Norm
 
#10 ·
Refer to the location of the "lip" in your legit tool pictures, it is at the bottom of the cut out(yes it is done with two circles); in the OP the lip is way to the left, where it would not engage the button- JMHO.

The small round circle ring at the top of the anchor in all your legit pictures is perfectly round, in the OP it is not.
The small cross bar at the top of the anchor is not a straight, line shape, but is heavier, thicker, and wedge shaped.

Yes, I have tried to hold a stamp upright and strike it evenly, it is very difficult as you say- but in this case the mis-strike
does not alter what I see in the anchor itself. All this could result from a worn stamp, except the faulty lip cut.

You all may be correct and the tool is good- I don't think so- but I've been wrong before.

Three "things" about it make me suspicious, so I'd pass- but then it is not my money.
As I said before it is just my opinion, worth no more than it cost, but not arrived at because it is "easy" to
call something a fake, but after careful study of the pictures.:cool:
 
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